Pick May if your trip is built around walking, sightseeing and scenery — the Lycian Way and the ruins are at their best when the hills are green, the air is fresh and the days are long, and a cool-but-swimmable sea is a fine bonus. Pick September if it's mainly a beach-and-boat holiday — the sea is bath-warm (around 25–27°C), the water stays warm into October, and the light is gorgeous. Both beat July–August for crowds and price. For the absolute quietest and cheapest, aim early May or late September.
The single deciding fact, if you only remember one: the sea is much warmer in September and the land is much greener in May. Everything else — crowds, price, daylight — is close. Choose on whether your holiday lives in the water or on the trails.
The quick verdict, in one line each
- Choose May for green hillsides, wildflowers, the best Lycian Way walking, fresh cooler air and the longest daylight — accepting a sea that's pleasant but on the cool side.
- Choose September for the warmest sea of the year, blazing-but-easing beach days, gulet cruising in warm water, and golden late-summer light — accepting brown, sun-baked hills and slightly shorter days.
Weather and air temperature
Both months are warm and reliably sunny, but they sit on opposite sides of the summer. May warms steadily through the month: early May is pleasantly mild (low twenties Celsius by day, cool evenings you'll want a layer for), and by late May it's properly warm at around 25–28°C. Rain is occasional in early May and tails off. September starts hot — often low thirties in the first week or two, a continuation of August — then eases gently, so late September feels like a softer, more comfortable warm rather than the dry blast of high summer. Evenings stay balmy in September; in May they cool off more.
In short: May = warming up, fresh, the odd shower; September = cooling down from a hot start, balmy evenings, very dry. If you dislike real heat, early May or late September are the gentlest windows.
Sea temperature — the big difference
This is where the two months genuinely diverge, and for many people it decides the whole question. The Mediterranean is slow to heat and slow to cool, so it lags the air by a couple of months.
| Factor | May | September |
|---|---|---|
| Sea temperature | ~19–21°C (cool, swimmable) | ~25–27°C (bath-warm) |
| Air (daytime) | Low-20s rising to ~28°C | ~30°C+ easing to high-20s |
| Scenery | Green, wildflowers | Golden, sun-baked |
| Crowds | Quiet, esp. early May | Quiet from mid-month |
| Daylight | Longest (towards solstice) | Shortening (~12–12.5 hrs) |
| Best for | Walking, sightseeing | Beaches, swimming, boats |
By May the sea is around 19–21°C — refreshing, fine for a proper swim if you don't mind a brisk start, and warmer in shallow sheltered bays. By September it's spent all summer absorbing heat and sits at a glorious 25–27°C, bath-warm and inviting, and stays that way into October. If swimming, snorkelling and floating about are the point of your trip, September wins this decisively.
Crowds
Both months are a relief after the July–August peak, which is the main reason to choose either over high summer. May is the quieter overall, especially early in the month before the season and the school holidays ramp up — beaches feel spacious, restaurants aren't rushed, and the Lycian Way is peaceful. September is busy for the first week or two as the tail of the summer holidays lingers, then empties noticeably from mid-month as European schools go back, so late September can feel almost as calm as May. For the fewest people either way, target early May or the last two weeks of September.
Prices
Both are shoulder-season and clearly cheaper than peak July–August — expect lower rates on accommodation, gulet cabins and flights in either month than in midsummer. The two are broadly similar on price; May edges it at the very start of the month and September at the very end, since those windows sit furthest from peak demand. The gap between the two months is small, so choose on weather and sea, not price — and if you're chasing the lowest rates, book early-May or late-September dates. For a full breakdown of what a trip costs, see our cost of a week in Lycia guide.
Scenery: green hills vs golden coast
The landscape tells you which month you're in at a glance. After the winter rains, May is lush — green hillsides, wildflowers along the trails, fresh foliage, and that vivid spring colour that's gone by summer's end. It's the most beautiful month to walk, and the best for photography of the countryside. By September, the same hills are sun-bleached golden-brown and dusty after the long dry summer; it's a different, warmer, more "ripe" kind of beauty, with lovely low light. Neither is better — but if green scenery and wildflowers matter to you, May is unmatched, and if you prefer the classic golden-Mediterranean look, September delivers it.
Daylight and the Lycian Way
May has the longer days — it's heading towards the June solstice, so you get the most daylight of the season, which is a real bonus for long walks and full sightseeing days. September's days are shortening (roughly 12–12.5 hours of daylight), still plenty, but you'll lose the long light evenings of midsummer.
For the Lycian Way specifically, May is generally the better walking month: cooler, greener and with longer light. Early September can still be hot for full-day hiking — walk early, carry water, rest at midday — but it settles into ideal trekking weather by late September. If your trip centres on the trail, lean to May or the second half of September. Newer walkers should read our Lycian Way for beginners guide first; for picking a base either month, see Fethiye vs Kaş vs Kalkan.
So which should you book?
Book May if…
Your holiday is mainly about the Lycian Way, the ancient ruins, scenery and photography; you want green hills, wildflowers, fresh air and the longest daylight; and you're happy with a swimmable-but-cool sea rather than a warm one. Early May is the quietest and freshest window.
Book September if…
Your trip lives in and on the water — beaches, swimming, snorkelling, a gulet cruise — and you want the warmest sea of the year (25–27°C) and balmy evenings; you don't mind sun-baked golden hills over green ones. Late September is warm, quiet and gorgeous.
Plan your trip
Or read: Best time to visit · Lycian Way · Trip cost · Things to do
Frequently asked
Is the sea warm enough to swim in May?
Swimmable but cool — around 19–21°C, fine for a proper swim if you don't mind a brisk start, and warmer in sheltered shallow bays. It's noticeably cooler than the air. If a bath-warm sea is the point, September wins; for walking and sightseeing with the odd dip, May is great.
How warm is the sea in September?
The warmest of the season — about 25–27°C, because the Mediterranean has soaked up summer heat and releases it slowly, and it stays warm into October. This is the main reason to choose September: for swimming, snorkelling and lounging in warm water, the sea is as good as it gets.
Which is less crowded, May or September?
Both are quieter than the July–August peak. May is the quieter overall, especially early May before the holidays. September is busy for a week or two, then empties from mid-month as schools go back. For the fewest people, aim early May or late September.
Is May or September cheaper?
Both are shoulder-season and clearly cheaper than peak summer, with similar pricing. May edges it at the very start of the month, late September at the very end. The difference is small — pick on weather and sea, not price, and book early-May or late-September dates for the lowest rates.
Are wildflowers out in May?
Yes — that's May's signature. After the winter rains the hills and the Lycian Way are green and full of wildflowers, and the air is fresh. By September the same hills are sun-baked, golden-brown and dusty. For green scenery, walking and photography, May is the clear winner.
Is it too hot to walk the Lycian Way in September?
Early September can still be hot for full-day hiking (high twenties to low thirties), so walk early, carry water and rest at midday; late September is ideal. May is generally the better walking month — cooler, greener, longer daylight. If your trip is built around the trail, lean to May or late September.